Turned slip-lasted shoe and method of making the same



March 25, 1952 2,590,707

G. F. JONAS TURNED SLIP-LASTED SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 8, 1946 2 SHEETS-SHEET l March 25, 1952 l 2,590,707

G. F. JONAS TURNED SLIP-LASTED SHOE AND I METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 8, 1946 2 SHEETS-S-{EET 2 v//l/l/1lulu/111111111110 53 6.2 f1/W @wf HTTo/QA/E/s.

Paienied Mar. 25, i952 .A

TURNED SLIP-LASTED SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Gilbert F. Jonas, St.` Louis, Mo., assignor to Boyd- Welsh, Inc., St. Louis,

Missouri Mo., a y corporation of Application July 8, 1946, Serial No. 682,089

' 16 Claims. (Cl. 36-19.5)

The present invention relates to turned sliplasted shoe and method of making the same.

An object of the invention is to provide a practical, inexpensive and exceptionally comfortable shoe. A further object is to provide a method for making such a shoe, which method is capable of being performed with available equipment. An object is to provide a method of making shoes, and a shoe, adaptable to either` the Welt, platform, or other style, without requiring large amounts of equipment for each.

A further object is to provide a shoe of a-sliplasted type that avoids the bulkiness of conventional slip-lasted seams, including the necessity of an external binding strip or rand. A specific object is to provide a shoe and method of making it, of slip-lasted type, wherein' the outsole and platform are not required to extend beyond the lateral limits oi the shoe, so that a better fit and better appearance vare secured.

A further object is to provide a shoe and method wherein there is an insole bound around its edges to the upper parts. Another object is to provide a shoe capable of being made with either open or closed toe or heel, and with stilieners such as shank braces, box toes, counters,

`and the like, as desired.

An object is to provide a shoe and method of making it, wherein slip-lasting is employed, and wherein either a platform type, or one. of the appearance of a conventionally lasted shoe, is obtained. Specically, it is an object to provide a combination of turning and slip-lasting, to obtain the foregoing objects.

A further object of the invention is to provide a shoe method employing a slip-last step, and thereby eliminating the conventional lasting operation, which produces a shoe having characteristics of rit and vstrength most desirable in both slip-lasted and conventional types of shoes. Specifically, it is an object of the invention to provide a shoe construction in which the upper is a complete unit entirely surrounding the foot, and in which the sole attaching device is relieved of any strain except that of holding the sole in position. Another object is to provide a shoe wherein the operations of adding fillersoles, where used, and of adding outsoles are simplied, and where their attachments are more secure. v

Other objects will appear from the description to follow.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view showing a primary stage in the process, with the parts shown inside out; y

Fig. 2 is a transverse section, taken on the line 2-2 ofaFig. 1 at a stitching stage;

Fig. 3 is an inverted perspective view of the shoe in a subsequent stage, showing the application of the llersole member to the inside out parts;

Fig. 4 is a transverse section on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged view of the upper right corner of the part of the shoe shown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a section on the line 6-6 of Fig. 3;

Fig. rI is a view at a subsequent stage after the parts have been turned, at which a last is slipped into'the shoe;

Fig. 8 is a section. along the line 8--8 of Fig. 7;

Fig. 9 is a section through the shank part on the line 9-9 of Fig. 7;

Fig. l0 is a view of the completed shoe;

Fig. 11 is a section on the line I I-I I of Fig. 10;

Fig. 12 is a section on the line I2-I2 of Fig. 10;

Fig. 13 is an enlarged view of the lower left corner of the shoe as shown in Fig. 12;

Fig. 14 is a view similar to Fig. 1 of parts turned inside out, but showing a closed heel type of shoe adapted to have a platform therein;

Fig. 15 is a transverse section on the line l5i 5 of Fig. 14 after the parts have been stitched together;

Fig. 16 is a bottom view of the shoe shown in Fig. 14, with the fillersole applied thereto;

Fig. 17 is a view similar to Fig. 16, but with the inside binder partially wrapped over the llersole; l

Fig. 18 is a transverse section on the line l-I 8 of Fig. 17;

Fig. 19 is a view of the shoe shown in Fig. 16 after it has been turned and in a lasting stage;

Fig. 20 isfa transverse section on the line 20-20 of Fig. 19;

Fig. 21 is an inverted view showing the use of this type of construction for a welt style of shoe;

Fig. 22 is a view of the completed platform shoe; and

Fig. 23 is a transverse section on the line 23- 23 of Fig. 22.

In Fig. 1, an upper for a shoe is shown at 25. This upper is a conventional, open-toe, openheel upper which has been cut and prepared in conventional manner. It is turned inside out and disposed over an insole 26, which insole is previously formed from a piece of fabric or similar inexpensive yet strong material. The insole 2S has its ultimate outside or bottom surface disposed upwardly, land has cement 26 applied to the other side.l The insole and upper are shaped or marked .to the proper size with adequate marginal seam allowances, so that the upper may be tted over the insole with the edges overlapping. An inside binder strip 21 may be applied around the top of the upper, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, this being an especially desirable addition toI conceal vthe seam edges in open shoes. As will appear later, this strip may be omitted in certain shoes. Fig. 2 shows clearly the upper 25 turned outwardly along its lower edge to be stitched to the insole 2B, and the strip 21 properly arranged so that a single line of stitching 23 may be easily sewed through them to hold the three parts together andto properly size the upper. This strip 21 should extend beyond the upper in open-toed andopen-heeled or cutout shoes, to act as a binder around the exposedV parts of the insole, although the strip need not be unitary.

After the foregoing operation is completed, a flexibley iillersole` 29, that may be made out of standard leather or composition llersole material on standard equipment, properly reenforced with a heel piece 30, as required, may be cemented to the under side of the insole 26, when a fillersole is desired. Most preferably, this llersole has its margin disposed slightly inwardly of the stitching 28.

Thereupon, the inner` binder strip 21, or a projecting marginal edge of the insole 26, if no separate strip is used, is drawn around the edge of the illersole 29 and is cemented. to the margin of the exposed surface thereof.

After the llersole 29 has been attached (if it is attached prior to turning) and the inner binder strip 21 has been wrapped around and secured thereto, the shoe is turned right side out in conventional manner. This is done manually and is simple, because the parts involved are soft, light and flexible. When this has been done, the shoe will have an appearance substantially like Fig. 7, the iillersole 29 bound by the inner binder strip 21 being now on the inside and the insole 26 being now on the outside. The seam holding the upper to insole 26 is then on the inside of the shoe, making a very smooth bottom without any lumps or ridges for the future operations of attaching and positioning the shank and the outsole. The upper is now a complete unit.

After the shoe is turned, a last of conventional type is forced inside the upper for the purpose of forming and shaping the shoe. The last is shown in dotted lines in Fig. 7 at 34. It is preferable to size the insole 26 to dispose the inturned seams on the bottom of the last, as this eliminates any ridge around the outside of the shoe. The llersole then functions, where necessary, to level the bottom of the inside of the shoe. In some types of shoe, a llersole will be unnecessary. After the last is in place, a steel shank of conventional type, as shown at 35, may be put in place. If the sole is to be attached by the standard cementing process, a filler 35 of plastic or the like may be located around the shank piece where desirable to maintain it in correct position and to provide a substance around it to which the outsole will adhere.

After the filling (if used) isr applied to the shank, the bottom of the shoe may be coated with cement, if the cement process is used. No roughing or further preparation of the bottom is necessary, owing to its character as provided by the msole 26. Then an outsole 31, of conventional cemented type, properly rounded, reduced, shanked out, and otherwise prepared, is attached to the shoe by standard machinery and cel'llef?v tech- 4 nique. The use of the fabric insole 26 increases the strength of the attachment of the outer sole 31, as aforesaid.

Although the'cement process for the attachment of the outsole 31 has been illustrated, it will be understood that the sole may be attached by other methods, such as the standard Littleway or MacKay sewing machine method. Also, as will appear, a welting may be applied and the sole attached thereto. At a proper time, a sock liningl 39 may be applied inside the shoe.

On sheet 2 is shown the method as applied to platform shoes. This arrangement is also illustrative of the. attachment of the welt. in this case, Fig. 14 corresponds to Fig. 1. There is an upper 5D, which is united with an insole 5|, both parts being inside out. As this process shows a closed-heel shoe, there is also a counter pocket piece 52 stitched along its upper edge to provide space to receive a counter, and here shown, along with the quarter, as having a conventional lasting allowance.

This type of shoe has an outer binder strip 53. This strip may be disposed over the insole 5 prior to the superposition of the upper 50, or it may be separately attached to either as a pre-- liminary step. An inner binding strip is disposed contiguous to the upper, as shown in the previous type, in Fig. 2, and the parts are stitched together by stitching 55. Fig. 15 shows these parts after they have been stitched. The stitching may be done while the parts are flat, as shown in Fig. 2, as will be well understood. The insole 5|. may be pre-cemented, if desired, the cement being identified by the numeral 5| (Fig. 15).

After the parts are thus stitched together, in a manner similar to that in the previous type, the fillersole 51, similar to the llersole 2.9 of the former type, is laid over the insole 5| within the stitching. Thereupon, the inner binding stripv 55 is wrapped over the outer edge of the filler# sole 51, as shown in Fig. 17, and is cemented around the edge of the iillersole and to the top thereof. Fig. 18 shows the inner binding strip1 55 Wrapped over on one side, but net yet wrapped over on the other side. This inner binding .stripA aids in securing the edges of the nlie'isole, and finds especial value in open-toed shoes', to cover' the raw seam edges. In some shoes, especially completely closed types, it may be omitted. 4

When the inner binding strip 55 is wrapped, over the llersole 51 and united thereto throughout its extent, the shoe is turned right side out, which disposes the outer binder strip 53 outwardly, as shown in Fig. 19. The outer binder strip 53 emerges from two concealed seams and insures a neat and smooth external appearance to the shoe, as well as a smooth bottom for the application of the platform or the sole. Also, it is not required to extend beyond the lateral limits of the upper. When the shoe is turned, a last is slipped into it. The shank stiifener 'may then be applied in conventional form. as was done at the corresponding stage in the previous type.. The counter or box toe may be inserted and the heel portion lasted.

Thereupon, if the shoe is to be a platform type. a platform 6I of proper size and shape maybey inserted within the desired platform area, secured thereto, and the outer strip 53, now acting as a platform cover, turned down thereover, as shown in Fig. 23. The cover 53 may be suitably secured to the platform, as by cement or the like, in conventional manner. Thereupon, j the outsole 62 and the heel may be united outside the 5 platform by the known processes. usually cementing, and a sock lining 65 applied. The result is a' platform shoe, as shown in Fig. 22, with its section in Fig. 23.

If the shoe is to be a welt type, the outer binding strip 53 is of proper strength and shape therefor. As shown in Fig. 21, it is turned out and the outsole is directly attached to it, as by stitching 61.

As a result of the process and constructional details described heretofore, a shoe is provided which has all of the Jsmartness and fit of a lasted shoe, but has the ease of construction, flexibility and comfort of a slip-lasted shoe. Furthermore, it is light, as it does not require a heavy insole, and is correspondingly more flexible and resilient, yet it does not contain any external seams that require binding, as are conventionally present in slip-lasted shoes. It affords a construction that provides a smooth surface for the attachment of the outsole, which thereby secures a better union of these parts. It eliminates the strain on the sole attaching device found in conventional constructions, because the sole attaching device in this shoe has no function beyond that of holding the sole in position.

Where a platform is used, it may be contained entirely within the margins of the normal sole portion of the shoeupper, as illustrated in Fig. 23. This eliminates the awkward appearance of conventional platforms that necessarily extend beyond a bottom of the upper. This results from the fact that, contrary to the conventional slip-lasted platform construction, the platform cover is not required to wrap around all or. a major portion of the upper and liner stitched union, in order to reach and extend down over the platform. Where the platform is not used, the nal shoe has all the neatness of a conventionally lasted shoe, because the seam between the upper and the insole is contained within the upper.

The foregoing method of making shoes, and shoe construction, provides shoes of any of the familiar styles, made without extensive machinery requirements. By slight modifications of the process, the style may be changed from welt to platform to the turned shoe appearance.

The insole in this type of shoe is an important feature of it, since it is flexible and yet strong, so that the turning operation may be performed and yet adequate strength be provided for the lasting operation and the attachment and securement of the outsole. It differs fr om a conventional turned shoe in not having functions of an outsole, and thus does not interfere with turning of the shoe. Being of the flexible material, preferably fabric, the insole aids in the attachment of the outsole as it provides one smooth piece of material across the bottom of the shoe to which a secure cement attachment may be readily made. Contrary to turned shoes, the present shoes do not have an outsole thatmust be attached prior to turning, and then turned. The present shoe also differs from conventional slip-lasted shoes in having the seams internally disposed, and the conventional external ridge eliminated.

It has been found that, with this construction, it is preferable to use a fabric for theV insole, and strong duct is particularly satisfactory. Such material takes a uniform coating of cement, and holds the same tightly. It has also been found desirable to pre-coat the insole material 6 Y with a suitable cement such as Compo cement or a' plastic cement, even prior to cutting of the insole parts, as this givesv the material body for handling, and eliminates the messy step of applying cement to the bottom prior to sole laying. The shoe may be turned prior to application of the llersole, which is made much more convenient by the pre-cement operation.` As an alternative, the fillersole may be pre-cemented, but at the cost of some desirable features enumerated. Also, the fillersole may be attached to the last, and then applied to the insole during the lasting operation.

What is claimed is:

l. In a shoe construction, an upper having a seam allowance on its lower edge, a flexible insole in the shape and size of the bottom of the inside of a shoe, and having a seam allowance on its marginal edge, the seam allowances being overlapped, attachment means fastening together the seam allowances, the attached upper and insole constituting a closed upper of determined size, the raw seam edges being disposed inwardly of the closed shoe upper, and the closed part of the seam being outwardly, an outsole x attached below the insole, the insole being sized to dispose the seam on the bottom of the closed upper part of the shoe, and a fillersole above the insole on the inside of the shoe, said fillersole being sized to be contained within the seam around the shoe, and to constitute a filler between the seam edges, the seam allowances being disposed against the edge of the llersole substantially parallel therewith.

2. In a shoe construction, an upper, an insole Vacross the bottom of the upper and stitched thereto forming a seam, the edges of the seam extending inwardly of the thus closed upper, a llersole across the top of the insole inside the shoe, a narrow, strip-like portion of flexible material extending from the seam of the upper and insole around the edge of the lllersole to enclose the same, said portion also covering the edge of'the seam to conceal the same, and an outsole secured to the bottom of the shoe.

3. In a shoe construction, an upper, an insole across the bottom of thez upper and stitched thereto forming a seam, the edges of the seam extending inwardly of `the thus closed upper, a llersole across the top of the insole inside the shoe, a narrow, strip-like portion of ilexible material extending from the seam of the upper and insole around the edge of the llersole to enclose the same, said portion comprising a strip of material attached together with the upper and insole, extending around at least a part of the upper, inside the same, and turned over the edge of the llersole inside the shoe and secured to the upper surface of the iillersole, and an outsole secured to the bottom of the shoe.

4. In a shoe construction, an upper having lower edge portions turned inwardly, an insole shaped like the bottom of the shoe, having its edge united to the inturned edge of the upper so as to form a closed upper portion of determined size, the free parts of the edges being disposed inwardly of the upper portion, a fillersole disposed across the top of the insole, binding strip means attached to the united edges of the upper and insole, extending inwardly of the shoe, around the edge of the fillersole and onto the top surface thereof.

5. A method of making shoes, including the steps ofv providing a iiexibleinsole of fabric-like flexibility shaped like the bottom of a shoe and having cement on o ne surface thereof, providing an upper, applying the upper while insidev exposed bottom surface of the insole.

6. A method of making shoes including the steps of disposing an upper portion over a shaped insole with the upper inside out and its lower edge lying in outwardly extending overlapping relationship to the edge of the insole, stitching the upper and insole together around said edges forming a seam, providing a flexible, narrow. strip-like portion extending from said stitching beyond the attached edges, applying a fllersole over the exposed surface of the insole, wrapping the extending portion around the edge of said iillersole, turning the thus formed shoe parts outside out, to provide a smooth bottom surface, and to dispose the seam of the attached edges inwardly of the shoe.

7. A method of making shoes including the steps of disposing an upper portion over a shaped insole with the upper inside out and its lower edge lying in outwardly extending overlapping relationship to the edge of the insole, stitching the upper and insole together around said edges forming a seam, providingy a flexible, narrow, strip-like portion extending from said stitching beyond the attached edges, applying a fllersole over the exposed surface of the insole, wrapping the extending portion around the edge of said fillersole, turning the thus formed shoe parts outside out, to provide a continuous bottom surface, and to dispose the seam of the attached edges inwardly of the shoe, and securing an outsole to the said continuous bottom surface.

8. A methodv of making shoes including the steps of disposing an upper portion over a shaped insole with the upper inside out and its lower edge lying in outwardly extending overlapping relationship to the edge of the insole, applying a binding strip to said overlapping edges to extend beyond the same, stitching through the insole, upper and strip, applying a llersole over the exposed surface of the insole, wrapping the strip around the edge and over the top margin of the iillersole and securing it thereto, turning the thus formed parts outside out, andk attaching outsole means to the bottom thereof.

9. A method of making shoes including the steps of disposing an upper portion over a shaped insole with the upper inside out and its lower edge lying in outwardly extending overlapping relationship to the edge of the insole, applying a rst binding strip between the insole and upper, applying a second binding strip outside the overlapping part of the upper, stitching the upper, insole and the two strips together, applying a llersole over the exposed surface of the insole, wrapping the first binding strip around the edge thereof and securing it thereto, turning the thus formed shoe parts outside out, disposing the second binding strip in projecting relationship thereto, inserting a platform within the second binding strip, and wrapping said strip over the edge thereof.

10. In a method of making shoes, the steps of disposing an upper provided with a marginal stitching allowance, in inside out disposition,

contiguous to an insole with a marginal stitching allowance, toY overlap said marginal stitching allowances, providing a projecting strip-like portion extending beyond said margin allowance, stitching the parts together at said margin allowance with the attached edges extending outwardly forming a seam, cementing a llersole over the exposed surface of the insole, wrapping the strip-like portion over the edges of the fillersole and cementing it to the exposed surface thereof, turning the thus formed shoe parts outside out to put the llersole and stitched seam edges inwardly of the shoe, and to cause the insole to present a bottom surface thereof, inserting a last into the shoe, applying shank stiffening means to the same, and thereafter applying an outsole below the insole.

11. In a method of making shoes, the steps of disposing an upper provided with a marginal stitching allowance, in inside out disposition, contiguous to an insole with a marginal stitching allowance, to overlap said marginal stitching allowances, providing a projecting strip-like portion extending beyond said marginal allowance, inserting an outer binding strip between the upper and the insole, to project upwardly from the insole inside the thus disposed upper, stitching the parts together at said margin allowance with the attached edges extending outwardly forming a seam, cementing a llersole over the exposed surface of the insole, wrapping the strip-like portion over the edges of the iillersole and cementing it to the exposed surface thereof, turning the thus formed shoe parts outside out to put the llersole and stitched seam edges inwardly of the shoe, and to cause the insole to present a bottom surface thereof, inserting a last into the shoe, inserting a platform Within the outer binding strip, wrapping the binding strip around the edges of the platform, thereafter attaching an outsole and a heel means, the outsole being beneath the platform.

12. In a shoe construction, an upper; an insole across the bottom of the upper and stitched thereto forming a seam, the edges of the seam extending inwardly of the thus closed upper;' a filler-sole disposed on top of the insole inside the closed upper; a first strip-like member of flexible material attached together with the upper and the insole and extending inwardly of the closed upper around the edge of the llersole to enclose the same, said first strip-like member being turned over the edge of the llersole and secured to the upper surface thereof; a platform member disposed under the insole; and a second strip-like member of flexible material attached together with the upper and the insole and extending outwardly of the closed upper, said second strip-like member being turned under the edge of the platform member and secured to the bottom surface thereof.

13. In a shoe construction, an upper having a seam allowance on itslower edge, a exible insole in the shape and size of the bottom of' the inside of a shoe, the insole having fabriclike iiexibility and having a seam allowance on its marginal edge, the seam allowances being overlapped, attachment means fastening together the seam allowances, the attached upper and insole constituting a closed upper of determined size, the raw seam edges being disposed inwardly of the closed shoe upper, and the closed part ofthe seam being outwardly, and an outsole attached below the insole, the insole being sized to dispose the seam on the bottom of the closed upper part of the shoe, the seam allowances being disposed so as to extend substantially vertically upwardly relative to the outsole.

14. In a shoe construction, an upper, an in sole across the bottom of the upper and stitched thereto forming a seam, the thus stitched upper and insole forming a closed upper, the raw edges of the seam being disposed inwardly of the thus closed upper, a llersole across the top of the insole inside the shoea narrow, strip-like portion of flexible material extending from the seam of the upper and insole around the edge of the llersole to enclose the same, and an outsole secured to the bottom of the shoe.

15. In a shoe construction, an upper having lower edge portions turned inwardly, an insole shaped like the bottom of the shoe, having its edge portion united to the inturned edge portion of the upper so as to form a closed upper portion of determined size, the free parts of the edges being disposed inwardly of the upper portion, a fillersole disposed across the top of the insole, and an outsole on the bottom of the insole, the edge portions oi the upper and the insole extending upwardly alongside the edge of the llersole no farther than the upper surface of the fillersole.

16. In a shoe construction, an upper having lower edge portions extending inwardly and thence upwardly, an insole shaped like the bottom of the shoe, having its edge portions attached to the upwardly extending edge portions of the upper so as to form a closed upper portion of determined size, the free parts of said edges being disposed inwardly of the upper portion, an external cover strip attached between the attached edges of the upper and insole and extending downwardly outside of the upper, the bottom portion of the upper extending below the upper edges of the insole and the cover strip, and platform means attached below the insole, the external cover strip being disposed around the edge of the platform means.

GILBERT F. JONAS.

REFERENCES CITED UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 236,170 Manseld Jan. 4, 1881 505,428 Kinsella Sept. 19, 1893 521,789 Goding June 26, 1894 544,748 Reed Aug. 20, 1895 854,361 Kelly May 21, 190-7 1,142,265 Menge, Jr. June 8, 1915 2,403,253 White July 2, 1946 2,407,352 Stritter Sept. 10, 194.6

FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 317,589 France May 28, 1902 

